so i made a bit of a schoolboy error i'm
actually getting really annoyed you know those little crest things cress head thing all
right new iphone 13 just checking out the zoom all right guys just a little tip um
it's been a while since i built a how's it going everyone chris from
automation and what i'm going to do today is i'm going to go through the different steps
and stages of building a smartphone control panel and this is the first video um that i'm
shooting in my workshop garage which is not quite finished yet but it's pretty much
there and this panel needs to get done so so yeah a bit cold as well hence the
gloves i haven't got a heater in here anyway before we get started let's just
uh run through the actual project so this is a smaller um sub panel really to the to
the main control panel um we're using locks on if i didn't mention um locks on for this project and
this panel is going to basically be controlling um lighting and heating mainly in a smaller
sort of outhouse tree house sort of area so if we jump into the designs um and what
we've got is we've got six different supplies the first one 40 amp from sauna second is a for
an immersion uh next one's 16 amp for a towel rail 6 amp for pull pump 6m for lighting circuits
which are made up of daly circuits and just normal switch 230 volt circuits and then we've also got
a supply 6 amp supply for the controls within that panel and if you're interested to see how i went
about doing the designs then i'm actually going to do another video running through that so if you
are interested please make sure you subscribe and hit the bell button and give this video a like if
you do enjoy it and then you'll be notified when that design video does come out so yeah just going
back to the designs again let's go through this in more detail so on the left hand side of the panel
we're gonna have the the main supplies coming in and and that's this this panel's slightly
different to how i'd usually wire a control panel usually we'd have just one main feed and then
split across various breakers along the bottom but with this one because it's a sub panel
and there's a consumer unit already in situ um we're basically just taking feeds from mcbs
within that distribution board which is actually in the same room as this panel so it's going to
be nice and simple so yeah those supplies we've got 40 amp for the sauna and then that's going
to be controlled through a contactor we've got a 16 amp for an immersion and again that's
going to be controlled through a contactor then we've got a 16 amp for towel rail that's
going to be controlled just for a relay on on the loxon relay extension and then we've got
a 6 amp for a pool pump again for a relay six amps for the lighting circuits so
those are going to be controlled through different relays again and then we've got a
supply which is just going straight into the power supply 24 volt power supply that's
feeding all the controls within the panel so that's going to be the first load of terminal
blocks the next one the next one sorry are going to be the outbound cables going to the sauna going
to the immersion tower rails pool pumps and then all the lighting circuits including um a gnarly
lighting circuit as well or a couple of darling darley lighting circuits so that's all the mains
connections done and then the next ones along are going to be for um 24 volt control
circuits um made up of mainly faraday tap ones faraday motion sensors and the there's one there's
a couple of spares and then there's a smoke alarm input and then we've also got the locks
on link which is the loxon communication bus coming from the main panel into this panel
to complete the bus and add that bus onto the extensions within our panel so if you're
not familiar with faraday faraday are a uk manufacturer and they do or they manufacture
very small form factor motion sensors like in line in the ceiling really really nice and
they've got a variety of different finish touch switches capacitive touch switches uh the tap
one and the tap three and that's what's going to be controlling this project mainly controlling
lighting with some um temperature sensing as well so the first step is let's get all our components
mounted on our panel so it looks like that so that's the first thing just a quick one
if you're on social media give us a follow on instagram that's where we spend most of our
time and going through what we're doing on a daily basis cheers i've actually only got
this mounted with one screw at the moment i thought it might might be good
enough i don't think it will the first lot of terminals are going to be
for the supplies so put those on the far left and then the next slot requires 16 terminal blocks
so those are going to be the outbound terminals to all the lighting or the lighting circuits
and the sauna the immersion the tower rails the pool pump um i've only ordered 10 well i only
have 10 remaining with this type of terminal block so either i change the terminal block type these
are v miller weed muller however you pronounce it the other ones i've got are way go um so i'm
gonna keep it consistent so it means i'm gonna have to order some more um not to worry so
they should come tomorrow the next day so but we would carry on without him for now so the next lot of terminal blocks are these
um eight by two straight through uh connectors so these are not ideal for control cables
cat cable um low powered cables basically so locks on tree cable knx cable um category five six
cable um so yeah those are the next ones to go on next thing i'm going to do is label them and this
just makes referencing when connecting cables much quicker and easier so
you might as well do it now problem is my hands are so
cold i can't i can't undo them pull them out of their strip and then
plug them into the terminal block when your hands are that cold you have to
you probably can't see that resort pliers that doesn't work either when your hands are frozen it's far easier to do
it on the bench um i've lost a number 25 somewhere hopefully it will turn up you know when you
you drop something you just can't help but keep looking for it so i was probably
wasted five ten minutes looking for it now just in little bits here and there um but
it will blatantly turn up but it will turn up you know tomorrow or something or but yeah
you can't help yourself but but look for it i'm actually getting really annoyed um it's
equally as difficult getting these little bastards on the terminal blocks on the bench i think
i'll just leave it and go inside and do it where my hands are warmer and or just get someone
with small fingers to do it it's really annoying yeah so i did actually plan for some breakers
and the main switch um got bar somewhere yeah did i just hand for that but then turned out
that the distribution board was right next to it so yeah as i said we're using feeds from that
distribution board directly into the panel and so yeah we don't need to worry about that so yeah
we got our focus will it cover my face it might focus yeah those are our uh contactors one for
the sauna the 40 amp and one for the immersion 16 amp the luxon relay extension so yeah relay is
all controlled through locks on it's one of their modules um 14 of them all rated at 16 amps
dali extension so that is obviously for our uh dali lighting communications through
loxon and i would be showing you the loxon uh digital input extension but it's not in stock
so i've got one to show you so for the time being i'm going to just use a placeholder i think
i've got a spare locks on air extension which is exactly the same width and height and so
i'm just going to go up into my little loft and try and find it to use as a placeholder so
thanks logs on making me having to do this yeah so exactly the same casing and size as the
uh the digital input extension so i'll just use that for now hopefully the digital input extension
will arrive before this job goes out so touch wood next we've got just a small power supply
1.3 amps 1.4 amps it's interesting yeah 1.25 amps i thought it was 1.4 amps
but uh that'll do and that's going down here and then the final thing going into the panel is
two of these um again similar to the blue ones eight by two-way terminal blocks by v miller but
these are all interconnected so whatever you put in you get out on all of them so good for a 24
volt bus and sorry not bus uh 24 volt common to put your 24 volts all over the
place and the same with zero volts right now they're all mounted in place but the
missing terminals are to get those on order what i'd usually do is i'd start with the main so
the main supply the feeds do those first then do the switched 20 um the switch 230 volts for the
lighting the heaters the immersion and then go on to do the the low power stuff and the controls um
i'm actually going to reverse that order because one i haven't got some four mil cable
i'm waiting for that to arrive um and obviously those terminal blocks aren't
there so i'm gonna do it in reverse order and do the control side and the the um
extra low voltage stuff 24 volts after breaking your trunking finger bits
keep hold of them um because they do point especially when you've got really really
loaded up finger trunking with not much space if you stick them in like that i'll get a closer
closer shot for you but yeah if you stick them in like that that will actually keep all your um
cable within the trunking so that's what it looks like with all the terminals and devices in place
you might say it's a little bit overkill there's quite a lot of space but customer wanted uh a
matching future automation panel um plenty of space for expansion and there was going to be some
mcbs and the main switch down there so really it's not too overkill but that's what it looks like
laid out now to wire it up so that's the first cable done the locks on link so that's coming
in on 33 from the other panel and it's going down here to the first extension into the
relay extension out to the dali extension and then for now the air base extension
which will be the digital input extension and then there should be a 120 ohm resistor on
the end of the bus which i will remember to add before the panel goes out right next part
that i've just done well firstly i've actually moved everything in a bit um got plenty of room
so let's make it easy for the people to actually mount it move those devices out the way so that
should make it easy to mount um but what i've done now is 24 volts out of the power supply and
that's actually running up here um and then out and it's going relay extension dali and
then that for now digital input yeah also move these uh common bars or common common terminals
from over here because they actually stick out uh further than this um and that top bit is
gonna be completely covered so anyway the next bit is gonna take 24 volts and zero volts
out of here and i'm going to link it to various terminal blocks here that require 24 volts
and zero volts which is basically all of them okay and then the next bit
of the 24 volt distribution is out of here and one cable is going here
and then as you can see linking across another cable on this fire on these five here
linking across and then just a single 24 volt going up to 27 and 28 linking across um and
that's for the motion sensors i think yeah so they need an extra 24 volts on each so yeah
that's 24 volt distribution done uh the next thing well you'll see so i made a bit of a schoolboy
error um and you see this bar here this top bar if that's um on these little feet if you can
see those those feet there standoffs you can't actually get the um the covering plate on um so
just a little tip make sure you take those feet off and mount the din rail flat against this panel
i'll show you what it looks like in a minute but just uh an easy one to forget um yeah yeah so you
get the din rail off hanging by a thread there um yeah and then just um allen key take the feet off
and then mount that back as you'll see in a sec that's better so yeah so now um what was
happening when the the covering plate was on those were actually sticking out through the
hole i think i've got a photo somewhere but now it's um yeah it's as you can
see it will be below that plate right day two not that it's taking two days to get
that far but yeah um as you saw on the close-up videos this is where we're at now so we've got
all the terminal blocks we've mounted those back so we've taken off the feet of the din rail
so the cover plate actually goes on and also for focus we've got this digital input
extension so i've got 20 digital inputs within this extension that can give feedback on whether
a door's open whether you've pressed a switch whether a motion sensor has been triggered so
that's what that's going to be useful that's going to be used for the paradigm motion sensors and the
paradigm touch ones so i can get that in there and remove the placeholder of the air base right just
before i get started that is the digital input extension added now and because it's the last
thing look at that zoom my new iphone 13 just checking out the zoom um yeah 120 ohm resistor
at the end of the luxon bus um so yeah one not to forget so just before starting the mains it's just
doing the uh digital inputs that are going from from there up here and then into into these
connectors up here so always basically take the length of the longest cable um so that'll
be from there to the furthest side here with a little bit of a service loop um take that length
and then cut as many as i need at that length and then i test let's see if that'll focus i'd
test the depth of how much it needs to be stripped back so annoyingly it needs to be slightly deeper
on this one on these terminal blocks than into this digital input so i basically i'll strip back
all the ends for the digital input so i'm putting those in first and then i'll make my this is a
quality tool uh next stripper increase the length increase the length a little bit and then
strip all the other ends to go into the goals you know those little crest things chris head
things that used to used to have as a kid kind of reminds me of that um people might be
saying oh why are you using green uh that's for a tree cable yeah that's true um green is for tree
but because there's no tree in this panel um and i want to stick with using this um i can't remember
what's called panel wire from fs cables um and it's tri-rated i'm going to use green for all
the digital inputs so that's the reason for that there we go then the little crest potato head
man is dressed in and ready to go out to the faraday tap ones and the faraday motion
sensors and a smoke alarm let us know in the comments what content you'd like
to see more of whether it's loxon knx control4 or smart home in general or building
automation or panel work anything just give us a shout in the comments and we'll try and
produce some more content in line with that cheers right so that is the main
feeds done um as you can see the first two the four mil and this
next one here that's for the sauna switching on the sauna and that's for an immersion
so those two cables both are just coming straight through through neutral and uh live into these
two contactors and then i'll be coming out the top straight back out to these terminal blocks
here um then we've got a pool pump we've got a towel rail and then the rest are lighting
um so there's a there's a pool pump and the tail rails going for a couple of these and then
the majority of these are just um feeds for the lighting circuits on different relays so they're
just basically bust across a much better solution is to have a i think it's by waygo and the
guys at ixa supply them but they're little um their little bridges for these relays so you
don't have to um cable the supply or the feed but in this case i think to
be honest i need i needed them um anyway so that's the feeds for the relays
and then that final feed going down here and then again lighting lighting
circuits so now it's just a matter of um coming out the other end uh and then
i've also got to do the dali output as well yeah so i'm sort of remembering now as i'm going
through it that um what i used to do is just do all the mains cables first um apart from
those feeds i was talking about to the relays get all of those in and that usually means the
thicker cables are put in as well first and then the smaller thinner controls cables are then put
in sort of second over the top of those firstly get all your thick cables like these four mils in
first um because then they can just be pinned back out the way right to the back and all your sort
of smaller cables more sort of fiddly cables can sit over the top and they're easier to run
because now when i'm going to come out of these relays the um the secondary side of these relays
i'm going to have to sort of go in and in and out around here and it's just a bit of
a pain um so that's the first thing um secondly i've just remembered that i normally
do the feeds from these relays last so as you can see they're just sort of in the way when they're
plugged in like that they're they're in the way when you're running cables in the in the finger
trunking i suppose it depends how you do it but when you're doing it that way they certainly
do so do your outputs of your relays first um going to the um terminal blocks um so
yeah i'll just just written a reminder really outs before feeds uh and big cables
first so that should remind me for the next one right that is it all done i'm wired um i've
been battling with my ocd for the last hour hour and a half basically just rearranging
how these cables are all swooping around one thing i might come back to tomorrow is just
sort out these feed wires i don't really like how they look at the moment um i don't
know how i'm going to make them look that much better but and to be fair once once
the trunking's on uh once the covers are on look it's basically gonna look like that so you don't
really see it but still it looks a bit pants when you pull the trunking off um but yeah that's it
basically done added in the uh the dali as well um ready for testing so i'll do what i'll do tomorrow
is a uh just a continuity test just buzzing buzzing through the cables um functionality wise
there's no mini server to connect i suppose i could connect a mini server to it but um but no
the my my friend chris who is uh commissioning it will be able to do all of that so yeah i'll
run through the testing tomorrow oh again okay right so the last bit now is just testing
um and it's not going to be a full-blown functionality test where i'm going to connect
the laptop and program it and test all the i o that way it's literally just
going to be a straightforward continuity test just buzzing the cables from
one end to the other and making sure that they are connected and if they're not put them right
and yeah just ticking off the drawings really so i can't really film this too well but it's
pretty self-explanatory really supply coming in here we're pretending that that's like coming
in and we're basically buzzing out that cable so neutral goes over to here there we go and then we
do the same on the other side make sure that that goes to number seven neutral back out to the sauna
and we just do that on every single um circuit within the panel so that's the mains checked
all continuity is alright um and then to do the the thinner stuff uh like the the locks on link
uh digital inputs the um 24 volt power supply um yeah what i do is i just strip back a bit of
thinner cable wrap it around the probes and bob's your uncle a couple of little labels there just to
let the guys who are installing or commissioning those the feeds coming in and those are the
circuits coming out uh i would sometimes depending on how big the panel is and the documentation
put labels on here but it's all very obvious it's all very obvious what stuff is so yeah no
need for that i don't think the documentation is um good enough so that's what it looks like with
all the spaces the um they're made by abb but they uh you can get them from fa future automation
but yeah that's quite a lot of them in this panel that's it everyone if you enjoyed it give us a
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